The corner of the internet I inhabit has been leading me toward a revisiting of Marie Antoinette. The most likely reason why is the recent release of Sofia Coppola’s new photo book Sofia Coppola Archive, which has resurfaced and recirculated beautiful images of her work. But it’s more than that! This seems to be the perfect moment for them to land— dealings with coming of age and girlhood and, importantly, all the accouterments that mark it, are the current fashion zeitgeist.
This the tale of the young Archduchess of Austria, Marie Antoinette, as marriage to Louis XVI brings her to France, and eventually makes her (a teen) Queen. I really appreciate how this film takes a story most of us know the tropes and outcome of and renders it relatable. Lots of movies have attempted to bridge this gap between a modern audience and an old tale, most of which circumvent the time and place and drop it into a modern landscape. I love that Coppola’s Marie Antoinette, keeps the setting (which was all-access to Versailles!), but drops the period drama script in other ways, such as music choice, modern humor and a self aware protagonist. And it’s successful at that, without being cheesy, due to a smart set up. Marie doesn’t force her relate-ability onto you, you choose it through following her into the strange place that is the French Court, and join her in the bewilderment of it’s customs. As Roger Ebert’s review sums it up so nicely— “the loneliness of being female and surrounded by a world that knows how to use you but not how to value and understand you.”
I love the lavishness of this movie. The rooms they inhabit, the gardens, the dress, the food they eat— everything is done up like a layered cake. The more ruffles, bows, and volume the better.
Taking a cue from the wallpapers and gentle motifs of the clothing, I decided to use a toile print curtain I got an estate sale years ago. Toile de Jouy is a classic print that features little one-color scenes of country life and is evocative of 18th century France when it rose to popularity. When I unrolled the fabric, I did question cutting it up for this project, because they did make a pair of lovely curtains, just not the right ones for my current home. I think better to put it to use than to save it for that someday when I’m in my own version of the Queen’s country “retreat” ;)… ‘til then I will just wear it and dress the part! I was inspired by the style lines in the Ellie Saab dress above, and likes how it lent a modernized silhouette to go off of, that still maintained the square neck and open decollete, as well as the the flat panel front reminiscent of the “stomachers” on 18th century dresses.
After making the initial pattern, I did have to alter the hip shape, which I initially intended to carry some volume out, however the way Ellie Saab drafted it so beautifully is a mystery to me, it just looked pointy and weird in my version. The resulting dress is subtler in it’s structure and volume, the panels serving more to fit it to my body, then create a shape away from it, but I am still really happy! I did have a plan to adorn my finished dress with some black velvet ribbon and bows, but I didn’t have any on hand and right now I am really enjoying it plain… though the option is not yet off the table!
Bows are quite the cultural phenomenon at the moment, and it’s current update by designers like Sandy Liang and Simone Rocha really has me flocking to this girlish way of dressing and remembering a lot of my fashion sensibilities of childhood, that was informed by a love of ballet and historical dress up. Very on theme with a lot of these newsletters, even more so if I add some bows to this one… then you might have to ask me, “Why is everyone dressing like a little girl?”… and I’ll tell ya *just for fun :) *.
Always love finding E-Pastiche in my inbox but especially loved this one! 🤍
I love this one so much. This dress, perfection. What a talented, smart and creative human being. You inspire me always!